Hook: Ahrex NS122 size 6
Tying thread: mono 004
Tail: 2 coq de leon feathers and 1 guinea fowl feather
Body dubbing: Ice dub uv pearl and fl red seals fur
Gills: 2 guinea fowl tips
Front dubbing: White STF
Back: Ripple ice fibers UV pearl, olive & black
Head: Loon uv fly finish thick & flow
1: Tie the thread to the hook bend
2: Cut the tip and strip off some fibers on a guinea fowl feather
3: Take two coc de leon feathers, strip of the soft fibers and glue the tips together. Then put the guinea fowl feather in between, secure with uv resin.
4: Tie in the tail
5: Dub the body
6: Dub the gills
7/8: Tie in one guinea fowl tips on each side
9: Brush the body
10/11: Tie in some STF under and on top
12: Fold back the STF and brush it.
13: Tie in some ripple ice uv pearl and fold back
14: Tie in some ripple ice olive and fold back
15: Tie in some ripple ice black and fold back
17: Attach eyes
18: Build the head with uv resin
19: Finished fly
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This is Mercer’s Skating October Caddis with a few minor changes to the original pattern.
Tied by Scott Patterson and photos by Scott Patterson
hook – TMC 5263 #6
thread – UTC 140 tan
rib – x-fine wire copper
underbody – Mirage Tinsel opal
body – Midge Tubing amber
body hackle – brown (undersize by 2)
thorax – Ice Dub hare’s ear
underwing – deer hair orange
overwing – Congo Hair orange
lower lip – 2mm foam tan
upper lip – 2mm foam orange
legs – small rubber orange
mash barb, start thread at 2/3 mark; tie in rib and wrap to bend
tie in tubing
tie in tinsel at 2/3 mark; wrap to bend, leave tag end hanging
wrap tubing forward to 2/3 mark; tie off/trim
spiral tag end of tinsel forward; tie off/trim (original used the tinsel rib to add a little flash to the pattern, but using it under the midge tubing adds enough flash to make this extraneous – next time I’ll leave this step out)
tie in hackle; wrap to the bend
capture tip with wire; continue rib thru the hackle to the 2/3 mark, helicopter end, cover with thread, trim hackle tip
tie in lower foam strip (gap width); wrap to eye
repeat with the upper
dub thread/dub thorax
clean, stack, measure (tips to bend) a clump of deer hair; trim butts/tie in
tie in a clump of Congo Hair, tips even with underwing; trim butts
tie in legs
cover tie in with a little more dubbing; half hitch x 2, SHHAN
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Matt Grajewski displays his Yard Sale streamer step-by-step below.
Matt said, “This version is the Muskie size, but it can be tied in any size for any species. It was originally a very effective trout fly. It’s great for bass and pike too. Just tie it to the appropriate size.”
Tail: bucktail, schlappen feathers, and flash
Body: flash n’ Slinky or similar slinky fiber, and flash
Wing: craft fur
Head: laser dub
Variation of a Darbee Two Feather; not sure who came up with this version. Cool fly, pretty simple tie; good thing because I don’t see these standing up to much chewing. Tied here as a Green Drake (hence the slightly elongated wings); change color/size to suit your needs. In smaller sizes, you might want to try some different materials – mallard breast (natural or dyed), partridge?
hook – Dai Riki 125 #10
thread – Danville 6/0 olive
tail/body – mallard flank dyed olive
wings – hen hackle tips black
hackle – grizzly dyed olive
mash barb, start thread, wrap to point above point
prep mallard (moistening fingers while stroking fibers back helps)
measure for length (hook); tie in/trim butts
trim out center of tail, leaving a couple fibers on either side)
prep hen hackle tips (convex to convex)
tie in halfway between hook point and eye, set upright with wraps at base
tie in hackle
wrap hackle, tie off/trim, half hitch x 2
trim out underside
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I started out tying this streamer unweighted and then two versions, the last one with a tungsten cone in size large just behind the eyes. The BJ will perform well in both versions but a weighted BJ will “start to fish” sooner after it has hit the water. The fact that the cone is placed apox. 5-6 mm behind the hook eye, and not directly behind it, makes the BJ to kinda “hoover” when you pause the retrieve, instead of diving…and yes, BJ looks rather bulky, but it will slim down in the stream.
Trailer Hook: 8 strands of Flashabou Holo on Gamakatsu B10S/F314.
Fold the flashabou, tie it backwards and trim the strand to uneven lenghts.
Senyo’s Fusion Dub. Or any flashy dubbing longer than one inch.
Fold the dubbing, tie it backwards.
Rabbit strip. You want aprox. 5mms of the skin behind the hook bend but of course, this is only a matter of taste.
Fill the dubbing loop with Senyo’s Fusion Dub.
Hackle it. Use a needle or/and brush to get the dubbing out.
Split the hackle/dubbing to both sides and fold the rabbit strip over and finish this trailer hook off.
Put the tungsten cone on the Gamakatsu B10S/F314 hook. Attach wire and one 6mm bead and the trailer hook.
Pinch down and fold dubbing on both sides of the hook.
The rabbit strip’s skin should end where the trailer hook’s strip “starts”.
Repeat the trailer hook’s dubbing and schlappen.
Stop here…remember to save some room for rabbit strips and laser dub in front of the conehead…How much? Look ahead in this SBS.
Hackle and whip it. Do NOT cut the thread!
Move the thread to the front of the cone from under. If you do this, the pressure from the thread will press the cone downwards and enhance chance for the fly to travel “upright”.
Rabbit strip. Press hard.
Rabbit strip of a lighter color. “Skin end” should be as short as possible without tearing apart.
Tight and cut it.
Fly-Rite mixed with SLF Prism (!). Or Senyo’s Laser Dub.
Fold and stripe!
One more layer of Oskar Hagelin’s secret blend 😉 just behind the hook eye.
8mm eyes of your choise.And remember…anything under size 4 is a wet fly!
This is a step-by-step instruction on how to tie the Mr. Rapidan Skater by Scott Patternson. There is an entire series of Mr. Rapidan flies and it all started at Murray’s Fly Shop in Edinburg, Virginia. If you want to read more about the Mr. Rapidan series, head over to Murray’s Fly Shop website to read the whole story. To know how to tie the Skater, continue to follow Scott’s step by step.
hook – TMC 5212 #6
thread – MFC 8/0 brown
rib – x-small wire gold
tail – calftail dark brown
abdomen – Fly Rite Poly quill gordon/brown drake yellow
body hackle – grizzly (undersize by 2)
wing – calftail yellow
front hackle – brown/grizzly mixed
mash barb, start thread at 2/3 mark, tie in rib, wrap back to point above barb
clean, stack, measure (gap width past bend) a clump of calftail (if you don’t have a dark brown one, just use the stuff at the base of any calftail); tie in/trim butts
tie in undersized hackle at 2/3 mark
return hackle to tail tie-in; dub thread, dub body
wrap hackle back to tail; capture tip with wire, then spiral through hackle to front of body, helicopter end and tie off
clean, stack, measure (tips to bend) a clump of yellow calftail; tie in, trim butts
flatten/divide wing; set with crossing wraps
tie in hackle
wrap, tie off, trim, half hitch x 2, SHHAN
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