Monthly Archives: April 2013

Hans Weilenmann interview!

HHW_Kolding_DFF_2013_2

 

How did you become interested in fly tying?

I have been a keen angler from the age of six, starting with a few lessons from my grandfather but pretty soon striking it out on my own as we did not live real close to my grandparents. My fishing was with floats, and ground bait, before moving onto spinning hardware and some such, or live bait for pike and zander.

My interest for flyfishing and flytying grew with the reading of books and magazines, such as Flyfisherman and Fly Rod & Reel. At the time flyfishing was not that common in the Netherlands, so in looking around how to get some lessons I joined the Casting Club of Amsterdam age 18, and started tying my flies at the same time.

Did you have a mentor when learning to tie?

Not really a mentor – though one experienced tier in the club provided some initial instruction and showed me how to tie a few basic patterns to get me started. My information came to me via books, mostly in the English language, and some magazines and the many, many catalogs I threw myself into. I was, and still am, a ferocious reader and I soaked up the information like a parched desert soaks up the rain when it decides to come visiting.

CDC & Elk

CDC & Elk

How does fishing and fly tying in the Netherlands differ from fishing or fly tying in the United States?

The Netherlands is a country without gradient. I happen to be a stream addict. Hmmmm…. what is wrong with this picture?

There is an abundance of surface water in the Netherlands, and there are many options to (fly)fish – though not for salmonids. The flyfishing is for what the British have termed “coarse fish” – such as pike, zander, perch, roach, bream, chub, ide and a more recent arrival from eastern Europe, the predatory asp.

For my stream fishing I travel into other parts of Europe (Germany, Denmark, the British Isles, Ireland, Slovenia, Bosnia, Croatia) – and indeed further afield to North America or New Zealand.

What do you like about using Cul De Canard feathers? I notice you use it quite often in your patterns. When selecting quality Cul De Canard feathers, what should one look for?

CDC is a very useful material for a number of the patterns I tie and fish. Just as any other material it has its strengths and weaknesses. What I try to do in my patterns is to draw on its strengths and compensate for weaknesses – either by selective techniques or in combination with other materials.

Some years back I wrote an in-depth article on CDC, the material and the usage, which was published by Flyfisherman magazine. An on-line copy can be found here:
http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tying-with-cdc/

Would you rather use natural materials in your flies instead of using synthetics? If so, why?

I am first and foremost a trout and grayling angler, and most of my patterns reflect this – though of course I do branch out and tie pretty much every category in the known universe.

While I am certainly not dogmatic in this, for most of my tying I tend to prefer, and rely on, natural materials. Feathers are hard to replicate in man-made materials in any case, but natural hair (guard hair or underfur) offers a myriad of textures often in a mix of coarse and fine and different shades, and staple lengths. Nature has very few solid colors, and many subtle shifts can be seen when observing the natural materials up close.

I do use some synthetics in my trout and grayling patterns, but when I do this is almost always in combination with natural materials. I will reach for man-made materials to provide me with qualities I cannot fine in natural materials, be it textures (tinsels, flash), or specific uses such as tying saltwater patterns where many man-made materials come into their own.

Diving CDC & Elk

Diving CDC & Elk

Besides your staple pattern, CDC & Elk, is there another fly you have a lot of confidence in?

If I have to pick a single pattern to complement the CDC&Elk this would be its sibling, the Diving CDC&Elk. They are effective fished single, but at times fishing them in combination they redefine “lethal”.

If you had a small fly box that only held 10 flies of any kind. What flies would you fill it with to go trout fishing?

This is in fact how I do my freshwater trout and grayling fishing (I have been known to fish for days out of a single tiny Tiemco hook box, crammed full of CDC&Elk and a couple nymphs ūüėČ ) – drawing from a small number of mostly generic patterns.

This K.I.S.S. approach has served me well across several decades and many bodies of water across three continents.

My staple set holds:

CDC&Elk – see video

Bruce Salzburg’s Crippled CDC&Elk – see video

Bob Wyatt’s DHE 2.0 – see video

Diving CDC&Elk – see video

Z-Dun – see video

Frank Sawyer’s Pheasant Tail nymph – see video

A rather generic GRHE nymph – Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear – see video

Jack Gartside’s Sparrow – see video

Jaap van der Heijden’s Jacobpattern – see video

A generic Woolly Bugger – see video

Could you tell us about your website, Flytier’s Page?

I set up Flytier’s Page (flytierspage.com) to provide a gallery by and for flytiers the world over. It has a very focused aim – to provide a platform for flytiers around the world to present a set of flies they like to be identified for. In order to deliver a consistent quality of images I do all the fly photography.

From its humble beginnings in 1997 it has grown to be a serious collection of patterns, submitted by several hundred tiers.

Flytier’s Page has been recently expanded to also provide a substantial list of my video flytying tutorials.

Yellow Sally Flymph

Yellow Sally Flymph

How would you describe a Flymph?

As the word Flymph was coined by Pete Hidy, I will defer to him for the definition:

“A wingless wet fly with a soft, translucent body of fur or wool which blends with the undercolor of the tying silk when wet, utilizing soft hackle fibers easily activated by the currents to give the effect of an insect alive in the water, and strategically cast upstream or across for the trout to take just below or within a few inches of the surface film.”

(Hans shows how to tie a Flymph in this video.)

In your opinion, what defines a good fly tier?

Now there’s a simple question… without a simple, unambiguous answer ;-)For me a good flytier is comfortable tying the breadth of patterns with competence, and is in control over the materials.He or she is a person with a sound understanding of techniques, properties of materials, their uses/strengths/weaknesses. He or she has a historical perspective, appreciation and respect, yet approaches novel techniques and materials with an open mind. Keen to push the boundaries of his or her tying, to improve with each fly tied.

 

Klinkhamer Special

Klinkhamer Special #30

Do you fish with small flies often? Flies that are sizes ranging from #18 to #28?

I would not consider #18 a small fly, though of course #28 does qualify ūüėČ

 

Do you feel there is any advantage in using really small flies?

I generally explain it like this – while I quite enjoy tying very small patterns, I do not particularly enjoy fishing them – but when you need to, you NEED to!

When you design a new fly pattern, are their specific steps you follow?

Lowrider Biot Caddis

Lowrider Biot Caddis

There is no set sequence, but here are two common scenarios:

1. I ‘see’ a pattern in my head, and then apply materials to a hook to produce a tangible replica. Then test and fine-tune as needed.

2. I look at, and handle, specific materials, ‘see’ a promising use for it or them – and a pattern comes from it.

I very rarely do patterns to imitate a specific insect – my patterns are invariably of a generic, impressionistic nature.

What fly tying vise do you use?

I have worked my way through a number of tying vises until a friend, Lawrence Waldron, made me ‘my’ perfect vise in 1989 – this model vise has become known as the LAW Bench vise. Now well into its third decade of use, and I am loving every minute tying on it.

Even though you have been tying for many years, are there any things that you have learned or discovered recently that have made your tying better or easier?

There are, actually. For the past ten or so years I have been using ever more the split thread technique in a range of pattern styles, using a range of natural and synthetic materials, be they fur, feather barbs or loose dubbing. The split thread technique is really cool, really useful, and should be in every tier’s toolkit.

Olive George

Olive George

Have you been working on a new fly pattern or video recently?

*chuckle* all the time ‚Äď both areas.

I am quite enjoying doing the tying videos – I think tying videos are the next best thing to getting one on one instruction, and in some ways provide a superior view into the subtleties of material manipulation and techniques.

My channel on Youtube (hansweilenmann) has, at this time of writing, some 130-odd HD resolution videos, and many more in the pipeline. The same set can be viewed via Flytier’s Page

Do you have any advice for less experienced fly tiers out there?

– Every tier starts out knowing nothing, and then builds out from there. You are not alone in this. Start absorbing.

– Lay a solid foundation by mastering the basic techniques, and build on them.

– Sound techniques enables you to build well proportioned, durable, effective working flies – techniques count for way more than fancy tools or expensive materials.

– Make it a priority to be the master over your materials, lest it becomes the master over you.

– Each fly ever tied has room for improvement, see this as a challenge and an opportunity.

– Practice does _not_ make perfect – only perfect practice does. (Otherwise you just get very skilled at making the same mistakes ūüėČ )

– Be fearless, be critical, keep an open mind and learn every day, and above all have fun!.

Do you have anything at all to add?

We live in the Golden Age of flytying. Never before, in the history of our sport, has the availability of materials been better, but more than that, the availability and real-time nature of information on techniques, materials and patterns has made, and will continue to make, this the finest time to be a flytier and flyfisherman.

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Purple Slip Knot – Tony Torrence

If you haven’t seen Tony tie before, he’s an excellent fly tyer. He has been on many of The Caddis Fly Shop videos. I like some of the things that he shows in this video. He ties this on a Senyo’s Intruder Shank, he shows how to rig a hook onto it, uses an interesting idea on the head with the thread, and shows a neat way to use the new Senyo Wacko Hackle. This is a steelhead fly by Tony called the Purple Slip Knot. Enjoy!

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March Brown Nymph – Bob Jacklin

I wanted to post Bob Jacklin tying his March Brown Nymph because I think it’s a beautiful pattern and Bob’s interesting to listen to. The first image is from Tim Geist and his awesome website called The Flybrary. It’s the March Brown Nymph in all it’s glory. The videos are in two parts showing Bob tying his pattern.

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Chewbacca – Norbert Renaud

Here is a cool pike pattern by Norbert Renaud. Here are the notes on the video:

Not a real surface rat, more of a drowning rodent pattern.
Strip and it will sink slowly,wait and it will come back to the surface,great movement from the back legs.
From the first outing Chewbacca has attracted a lot of attention from aggressive pikes.
Great fun to fish, can be stripped fast near the surface or just “sink and draw” style to imitate a distressed rodent.

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Around the Net – 4-25-2013

It’s time for another FrankenFly “Around the Net!” First up is Mike Schmidt’s step-by-step of his newest streamer, the Junk Yard Dog. Check it out over at the Angler’s Choice Flies website because Mike just put it up tonight!

Junk Yard Dog

Junk Yard Dog

 

Ben Treppa tied this 13″ musky fly up at the beginning of April. Some meaty musky goodness right there! Check out Ben’s blog.

Ben Treppa musky fly

Ben Treppa musky fly

Normand Frechette tied up a beautiful Sanctuary soft hackle. Normand is a skilled fly tyer and you can see more of his ties at Flytying: New and Old.

Sanctuary

Sanctuary

 

Alan Bithell tied this Peter Ross pattern. This pattern was designed in Scotland back in the 1890’s and is a variant of a fly called the Teal & Red. Alan did a great job on this one!

Peter Ross

Peter Ross

 

Here is one of the coolest bluegill flies I’ve seen in some time. It is called the Foam Dragon, created by Clark “Cheech” Pierce. You can read more about the fly and see the video over at FlyFishFood.

 

Foam Dragon

Foam Dragon

 

This next one is by the master, Ronn Lucas Sr. and he calls it the Wilson Pickett. Just downright awesomeness!! By the way, I’m posting this “In the Midnight Hour!”

 

Wilson Pickett

Wilson Pickett

 

I posted this one a month or so ago on the FrankenFly facebook page and put it on Instagram, but I wanted to give a better view of it here. This is my pattern called The Howler! I have some coyote tail that I’ve been playing with and this was the first result from it. I hope you like it.

The Howler

The Howler

 

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Michigan Hillbilly Nymph – Jerry Kunnath

Since I’ll be heading up to the Au Sable in Michigan this summer, it’s hard to not think about being up in Michigan right now. My step-son and I floated the South Branch last year with my buddy Jerry Kunnath. Speaking of which, Jerry tied up this Michigan Hillbilly awhile back and he provides some good information about this old pattern.

Michigan_Hillbilly_Nymph-447x331

This fly is one of those old time flies that have been around for more years than most can remember. It is rumored to have been named in one of the old fly fishing lodges that were located on the North Branch of the Au Sable. Seems that a group of guys just named it kiddingly after one of their fishing buddies.

Recipe
Hook – Tiemco #105 [egg fly hook] size 4 for a bigger nymph, size 8 for a smaller nymph
Thread– black 6/0 uni-thread
Tail– grey squirrel hair [tail fibers]
Egg Sack– peacock hurl, about three to four thicker strands
Body– red chenille, and make it thick
Wing– woodchuck tail fibers [both fine and course]
Hackle– brown or black, stiff hackle [soft hackle if you want it more buggy]

I like to tie in the tail so that it points down the bend of the hook a little. I also prefer to include both course and fine woodchuck tail fibers in the wing. I think that it makes the nymph look more ‚Äėbuggy‚Äô, which is, in my opinion, always better for catching fish. Build up a bit of a head with the thread also as you finish the fly, then dab the head with a bit of cement to solidify. And remember; fish it right near the bottom, rolling along naturally in the current. And don‚Äôt ask me what it is supposed to resemble. All I know is that it catches fish‚Ķ.trout, smallmouth, carp, darn near whatever is swimming near it.

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Realistic Stonefly Nymph

I think one of the coolest looking bugs is a stonefly nymph. So there is little wonder why many realistic fly tyers like to tie their own version of these wonderful insects. Pictured below are several versions from various tyers and there is a link to Johan Put’s step-by-step on how to tie one of these bad boys.

stonefly_nymph_front

photo by Hans Weilenmann

Tied and originated by Paul Whillock

Hook:     Size 4 Tiemco Longshank
Thread:     UTC 70 White
Tails:     65 lb Clear Monofilament
Underbody:     Yellow Chenille
Abdomen:     Natural Tan Raffene
Wingbuds:     Varnished Raffene
Legs:     Japanese Nymph Legs
Outer thorax:     Natural Tan Raffene
Antennae:     35 lb Clear Monofilament
Gills:     Gray Poly Yarn
Jaws:     Japanese Nymph Legs
Leg Hair:     Gray Ostrich Herl
Claws:     Varnished Black 8/0 Uni
Eyes:     Burned Mono + Varnish
Front legs:     Japanese Nymph Legs
Colouring:     Edding and Kurecolor Pens
Pronotum:     Synthetic Raffene
Head capsule:     Synthetic Raffene
Varnish:     Matt and Gloss

Photograph by Hans Weilenmann

low PB020233

Tied by Dronlee

golden_stonefly_nymph_dark_top

photo by Hans Weilenmann

golden_stonefly_nymph_dark_bottom

photo by Hans Weilenmann

Tied and originated by Dale Beamish

Hook:   Mustad 79580 #6-10
Thread: UTC 70 Cream coloured with permanent marke
Setae:   Stripped Hackle Quills
Abdomen: Latex strip wrapped, coloured and then treated with soft body
Thorax: Latex strip wrapped in sections between the Ostrich herl
Wing cases: Prepared Tyvek paper
Head / Thorax Cover: Prepared Tyvek paper
Gills: Ostrich Herl
Head: Prepared Tyvek paper
Legs: Japanese Nymph Leg and Porcupine Quill
Eyes: Melted Mono and Soft Body
Antennae: Horse hair
Colouring: Permanent markers

Photograph by Hans Weilenmann

stonefly-34

Tied by Johan Put

Click here to go to Johan’s site to see the step-by-step on how to tie this stonefly nymph.

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Popham – Austin Clayton

Popham-800

The Popham was created back in the 1800’s by F.L. Popham. It is known to be a fairly complicated fly to tie. Austin Clayton shows us in three parts below how to tie the Popham and he ties it in-hand without a vise.

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Geezus Lizard – Jay Zimmerman

JayZimmerman-bass

 

Jay Zimmerman is a guide, instructor, and fly designer living in Colorado. He works at Charlie’s Fly Box. The reason I wanted to post about his Geezus Lizard fly pattern was the recent photo of Jay holding this beautiful largemouth bass. I know you guys and gals have read this before, I LOVE BASS! Anyway, I asked Jay what fly he used to catch this awesome bass and he said the Geezus Lizard! So Jay’s recipe for the Geezus Lizard is below, plus a video on how to tie it. You can follow all of Jay’s fishing at his blog.

 

GeezusLizard

Color: Crayfish (pictured)
Hook:
Gamakatsu Jig 90 Heavywire (round bend)
Size: 2 and 1/0
Tail Thread: Danville’s 210 flymaster plus (black)
Tail Tip: Frog’s Hair dubbing (Golden Yellow)
Tail Dub 1: Whitlock SLF (Dark Stone Nymph)
Tail Dub 2: Whitlock SLF (Nearnuf Crayfish Nat.Orange)
Body Thread: Danvilles’s 3/0 waxed monocord
Legs: Spirit River Tarantu-legs Hot Orange(Med)
Belly: Hareline Dubbin Scud Back 1/4‚ÄĚ Clear
Rib: UTC Ultra Wire (Black) Medium
Weed Guards: Rio Saltwater Hardmono
(17 pound test for size 2, 26 pound for size 1/0)
Body Rear: Dark Rust (micro mink on #2,rabbit on 1/0)
Body Front: Lite Rust(micro mink on #2,rabbit on 1/0)
Topping: Dark brown marabou
Eyes: Yellow dumbells (Med on #2, Large on #1/0)
Head: Whitlock SLF (Dark Dragonfly)

Color: Black & Olive
Hook:
Gamakatsu Jig 90 Heavywire (round bend)
Size: 2 and 1/0
Tail Thread: Danville’s 210 flymaster plus (black)
Tail Tip: Frog’s Hair dubbing (Golden Yellow)
Tail Dub 1: Whitlock SLF (Dark Stone Nymph)
Tail Dub 2: Whitlock SLF (Rd Fox Sq. Abdomen)
Body Thread: Danvilles’s 3/0 waxed monocord
Legs: MontanaFly, Centipede Legs, Speckled Clear Tan(Med)
Belly: Hareline Dubbin Scud Back 1/4‚ÄĚ Clear
Rib: UTC Ultra Wire (Ginger) Medium
Weed Guards: Rio Saltwater Hardmono
(17 pound test for size 2, 26 pound for size 1/0)
Body Rear: Black (micro mink on #2,rabbit on 1/0)
Body Front: Olive/Brown (micro mink on #2,rabbit on 1/0)
Topping: Black marabou
Eyes: Yellow dumbells (Med on #2, Large on #1/0)
Head: Whitlock SLF (Hellgrammite)

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Pat Cohen – a few questions

Red Eyed Gilla Killa

Red Eyed Gilla Killa

I’ve been wanting to post some information about Pat Cohen’s fly tying on FrankenFly for some time now. Pat ties amazing deer hair flies and most people identify him with that. I sent him some questions and concentrated more on some of his other creations because I think they deserve more attention. If you still want to see some of his deer hair work, don’t worry, they’re here too.
Above is Pat’s newest fly, the Red Eyed Gilla Killa. It will be available at Pat’s online store soon!
superflylogo

How did you become interested in tying flies?

I started fly fishing in 2008…By the end of the summer I had become completely obsessed with fly fishing. 2009…Christmas…My Father bought me a Wapsi starter fly tying kit…January of 2009 I tied my first fly..I guess it seemed like a natural progression from fishing to making my own flies. I think originally I started because the closest store that I could buy flies at was 45 minutes away. I knew nothing of tying flies though..In fact 9 times out of 10 if you looked at the end of my line it had a bead head woolly bugger on the end of it..I tied crystal woolly buggers till my fingers hurt…It was the only fly that I knew that would catch Small Mouth Bass…haha…that seems like a long time ago now…

 

Most people know you have amazing deer hair skills. Where did you learn how to tie with deer hair?

I actually am completely self taught. I did not have an instructor. Once I got away from woolly buggers I started to get into top water bass fishing…but after a few fish the fly would fall apart..I decided that there had to be a better way to make them..at that time I had no idea how to make a bass bug..In fact..the first time that I tried to make a hair bug I used bucktail and couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong…I watched a couple of youtube clips and heard the phrase belly hair…a light went off…I was instantly off to the fly shop…If there was a mentor of sorts to my tying it would have to be Tom, who has become a great friend of mine. He ran the fly shop and pointed me in the right direction when I told him I wanted to tie bass bugs. He showed me the materials that I would need and off I went…My first few bugs were very rough…I started by spinning hair and basically making Tap’s bugs…From there, for whatever strange reason, I became obsessed with hair bugs and top water fly fishing…I developed my own techniques as time went on to get the look and the durability that I wanted out of a fly….

display

 

I have just recently watched your deer hair DVD and learned a lot about working with deer hair. Could you briefly explain to the readers why you always stack deer hair instead of spinning deer hair?

I stack hair for a few different reasons…Most importantly, stacking gives you total control over all of the hair all of the time…Every bit of hair that goes on a hook is where you want it because you put it there..This enables you to get patterns, stripes, bars, spots..whatever….Spinning hair does not allow this at all…Stacking hair also gives you the opportunity to get more hair on the shank,…The more hair, the more dense the bug..the less water it absorbs, the better it floats and the more durable it becomes…

 

I don’t think people realize that not only are you good with deer hair, but you tie other flies that are equally impressive and well designed. How did you gain your skill set in this area?

Again I am a completely self taught tyer. I learned mainly through trial and error…I think as my obsession with this whole thing grew, I read everything that I could get my hands on, asked questions…and tried new things….I think my skills have developed as the need to create other patterns developed..I tie at the shows so I am around some of the most talented tyers in the world…there is always somebody doing something new..it’s exciting…if you keep your eyes and ears open..you will always learn something new at an event…Social media has opened the doors to many new things as well…There is so much going on in the fly tying world…how can you not learn more…

 

You have recently made the jump into tying flies full time. Can you tell us about that?

Well….it started as a hobby..something I used to decompress from work….then I started demonstrating at shows…then people started buying my flies…I showed up in a couple of magazines…then bam…I don’t know what really happened…The requests for flies through facebook got overwhelming…I had a website built…the website took off amazingly well…It got to a point that I could not keep up with retail orders and work a full time job…Commercial fly shop requests started rolling in…I was no longer happy at my job..so I took a leap of faith 6 months ago and have not looked back…I am grateful for all of the success…not a day goes by that I am not thankful for what I am able to do at this point…I tie flies 13-14 hours a day, 5-6 days a week right now, and travel all over the east coast in the winter doing demos at shows and classes at fly shops and clubs…
SF-ShagginDragon

SF Shaggin’ Dragon

Your SF Shaggin’ Dragon is a great looking pattern and I’ve seen it in a list of go-to patterns for carp. What process did you have to go through to design this pattern?

The patterns that I create are basically my take on what I see…Fly tying is problem solving…A lot of trial and error goes into all of my flies…It starts with an idea…goes to prototype,,,gets the snot fished out of it and changes are made along the way..The Shaggin’ Dragon came for a need of a dragon fly nymph imitation that had some weight to get down, but would make a minimal splash upon entering the water. Just a little flash…when carp are mudding I like to give them something that will get their attention…This fly just produces..hands down…it’s my go to pattern in lakes.

carpncrunch

Carp-N-Crunch

The Carp-n-Crunch looks like another good carp pattern. From the photo it’s hard to see how the hackle is tied and what the body is. Could you explain more about this fly?

This was the first carp specific pattern that I ever made…The body is made of palmered peacock herl, then a rib of wire to give it some segmentation and to strengthen the herl…The legs are tied in, then the hackle is palmered in the v of the tied in legs..This fly has lots of motion due to the schlappin and rubber legs…it’s a great fly for carp and the smallies seem to chow it down as well…

 

If a fly tyer who was new to carp, wanted to design an effective pattern, what should they keep in mind when creating a new pattern?

The fly has to have a little weight…but it has to be done in a way that lets the fly land soft in the water…you want subtle,¬† natural movement…schlappen, webby hackle, rubber legs…shaggy dub, wiggle dub..EP tarantula brushes…all of these products make great carp flies…they are opportunistic scavengers…but they are very selective and very smart…look in your waters to see what’s around that they could be eating…natural muted colors are best in my opinion..olives, tans, browns, rust, black….I would use different flies in rivers vs lakes for carp…keep that in mind as well…think outside of the box with carp flies..but .it can be as simple as a general attractor type nymph, like a clouser swimming nymph…
Hell Yeah Grammite

Hell Yeah Grammite

Could you touch on a little information about some of your other patterns, like the Hell Yeah Grammite, SF Hex, Sili Craw, and Pimp Shrimp? What species should be targeted with these patterns and how did you decide to put these flies in your pattern arsenal?

Hell Yeah Grammite, next to crayfish, is a Smallie’s favorite food….I wanted a hellgrammite with lots of motion so I made an articulated one….
Hex….Carp love hex nymphs…designed to ride hook point up, lots of natural movement with the wiggle dub…perfect for the whiskers…
Sili Craw…again…a great small crayfish for carp and smallies…a little flash…good for dirty water, small enough to not scare off a feeding carp and lands soft enough to not spook them…the smallies love crayfish as well..
Pimp Shrimp….this started out as a Steelhead fly…there are so many Mysis Shrimp in the Great Lakes…for whatever reason I didn’t see anything that was being offered in the shops around there for that..I figured Steelhead had to be eating them..I was right..it’s a great fly if you want to nymph them up in the late winter…It also does damage to finicky carp…and the panfish love it….

 

Is there anything at all you would like to add?

Thanks a ton for inviting me to be part of your website…
check www.rusuperfly.com for more patterns..and new things are always being added….

 

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